I'm in charge of testing a MiiCraft DLP 3D printer.
Yesterday I started with a few tests after completely cleaning the device. But they all failed.
And today I'm gonna do some more...
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I'm in charge of testing a MiiCraft DLP 3D printer.
Yesterday I started with a few tests after completely cleaning the device. But they all failed.
And today I'm gonna do some more...
Lors de ma dernière "étude" j'ai réfléchi à l'utilisation de structures en nid d'abeille pour la fabrication des supports.
Et comme aujourd'hui j'ai le bourdon, je suis retourné à mes nids d'abeille (honey comb) pour cette fois-ci explorer les possibilités de "renforts".
Dans pas mal de pièces dessinées par Gaël la structure de support est incluse.
C'est une idée que j'avais déjà explorée avec cet objet.
Hier tard dans la nuit j'ai commencé à gamberger au "support idéal" (ma femme n'étant pas là, peut être ?).
Il est quand même 04h30 et y'a une "PistonbaseV4" qui s'imprime !
C'est pas raisonnable... Mais c'est à cause de cette idée de structure de support là !
Du coup je m'suis pas couché...
Si vous savez pas ce qu'est un "support" ou un "slicer", çà va vous faire chier !
Mais y'a des jolies images...
The UP! software doesn't allow for raft smaller than 2mm. But you can still disable it.
Compared to other slicers I have used (Kisslicer, Skeinforge) the UP! raft is very thick !
The UP! raft structure is made of tunnels and so far it has proved to be efficient. But making such a thick raft is a big waste of material ! (could it be a commercial strategy ?)
Let's see how to print with just a single layer raft...
Leveling the Rapman's bed to ensure it's perfectly parallel to the XY toolhead's plane is something important.
Until now, like a lot of people I guess, I was doing it "by eye", trying to achieve a thickness of about 3 sheets of paper (hot-end/bed distance) where the 3 leveling bolts are placed (back left and right corners + middle front).
It usually is enough for classic 3D printing.
But as I allready said, for pen-plotting and especially for milling, it's important to insure that the bed is perfecly leveled. Or at least as perfect as it can be.
So we're going to need a more "scientific" way to make sure the bed is at an equal distance to the toolhead (at least at these 3 leveling points).
And I think there is an easy way...
Doing searches on the web, I found that little python script.
It's aimed to print lampshades from grayscale images on a Makerbot.
If it works on a Makerbot it should also work on a Rapman. So let's try that...
Now I need to find some way to prevent new future nozzle jam.
But what are the reasons for jamming and what can be done about it ?
I have never tried printing with PLA.
I know it warps less than ABS so it can be an interesting material, especially for big flat parts.
I have some blue translucide PLA so I'm going to try with that...
I usually print with a layer thickness of 0.4mm and I'm happy with that.
The print quality is correct, and the print time is acceptable (though it's never fast enough...).
But I know that a Rapman can do better than that. So let's ask it a bit more and see what it can do...
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