22/02/2022
By Anar on 22/02/2022, 16:02
Being involved in a theater play that takes place in 1920, we needed an old style camera.
After searching a real one without success, I decided to make our own by combining 3D printing, woodworking and painting.
Here is the result....
07/05/2020
By Anar on 07/05/2020, 14:59
Almost 7 years ago I published my first version of the "Sceaming hand" Santa Cruz's emblematic design.
And honestly when I look back at it I think it doesn't deserve the more than 250 likes I received on Thingiverse (at the time of writing).
It's now time to make a better one...
02/05/2020
By Anar on 02/05/2020, 14:52
This is another post about printing something BIG.
By "BIG" here I mean a long print time and how it can drastically be reduced by having a good print strategy.
Or how a 12h print can be reduced down to 7h without any compromise on print quality.
19/10/2019
By Anar on 19/10/2019, 14:43
This is the first big print I did back in 2018 as a trophy for a table-soccer tournament.
It was printed in 3 parts on a Ultimaker2 Extended printer, glued back and painted.
In this post I will show you the different steps.
13/10/2019
By Anar on 13/10/2019, 17:33
This is the next example in my "Printing something BIG" serie.
I could have printed this 36 cm tall object in one go. My printer (a Creality CR10S Pro) is big enough.
But cutting it in parts saves printing time and material.
So once again it's something I strongly recommend.
By Anar on 13/10/2019, 14:23
Printing big objects is something I wanted to do since a long time.
But 3d printing is such a slow process that it discouraged me until now (I have some free spare time).
Still it's important to plan ahead to reduce printing time to a minimum and avoid support structures as much as you can.
17/03/2017
By Anar on 17/03/2017, 19:36
Since a few years I have a legendary KORN & MACWAY SERVO-SOUND Cybernetic preamplifier with its 2 active speakers.
But unfortunately I only own one of the 2 proprietary cables so I'm unable to listen to it (or only on 1 of the 2 speakers).
And these cables are nearly impossible to find (I've been searching a lot and never found one).
So I decided to make another one by myself...
08/02/2017
By Anar on 08/02/2017, 22:00
I recently modeled a few things from my last 3 months trip to Bulgaria.
I hope you will like them...
15/01/2017
By Anar on 15/01/2017, 15:42
My friend Cedric had his 40th birthday party yesterday.
I decided to offer him a 3D sculpture of himself when he was 30.
And here is how I did it...
07/01/2014
By Anar on 07/01/2014, 12:43
In the last years I made several designs that I never published or shared.
To start this new year 2014 I decided to share them with you... Happy printing !
14/10/2013
By Anar on 14/10/2013, 17:48
I have allways loved skateboard and I still do !
And I also like very much skate designs...
Now to be honest I feel like I'm just getting too old to go back in a skate park or even to try some nice "ollie flip" in a street session...
02/04/2013
By Anar on 02/04/2013, 17:26
The Z homing on a BfB Rapman is insured by an inverted bolt placed at the back of the extruder.
The bolt's head is actioning the Z switch when the bed moves up.
The bed to nozzle distance can be controled by tuning the lenght of that inverted bolt.
But I think it could be made much easier...
15/11/2011
By Anar on 15/11/2011, 15:41
Leveling the Rapman's bed to ensure it's perfectly parallel to the XY toolhead's plane is something important.
Until now, like a lot of people I guess, I was doing it "by eye", trying to achieve a thickness of about 3 sheets of paper (hot-end/bed distance) where the 3 leveling bolts are placed (back left and right corners + middle front).
It usually is enough for classic 3D printing.
But as I allready said, for pen-plotting and especially for milling, it's important to insure that the bed is perfecly leveled. Or at least as perfect as it can be.
So we're going to need a more "scientific" way to make sure the bed is at an equal distance to the toolhead (at least at these 3 leveling points).
And I think there is an easy way...
23/10/2011
By Anar on 23/10/2011, 11:22
I will need something to hold a pen in place of the original extruder if I want to use my Rapman as a pen plotter.
As usual, I'm gonna design that part in Sketchup.
04/04/2011
By Anar on 04/04/2011, 10:41
I usually print with a layer thickness of 0.4mm and I'm happy with that.
The print quality is correct, and the print time is acceptable (though it's never fast enough...).
But I know that a Rapman can do better than that. So let's ask it a bit more and see what it can do...
17/03/2011
By Anar on 17/03/2011, 16:29
When you print using the support feature with a diferent temp setting for the support, the print head will constantly go to its rest position to change its temperature.
Doing so, it will deposit some stringing on the printed object.
Let's see if we can manage to find a solution for that...
03/02/2011
By anar on 03/02/2011, 13:10
Tuning my Rapman is real fun.
But I'd like to print something else than just spare parts from time to time.
So let's make a little pause...
28/01/2011
By anar on 28/01/2011, 15:43
Unless you mounted the PCB fan on its wrong side (which you should better check twice - 99% of the Rapman I've seen have been built with both fans upside-down !), you are probably pissed off having it sucking the dust from your desk !
And I don't even speak about the generated noise.
Let's try to find a solution for that...
26/01/2011
By anar on 26/01/2011, 17:19
The plastic conduits are just laying on my desk if I do nothing.
It's not a big deal but it could be better...
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